More than a few readers may squirm as they nibble their way through Sophie Haigney’s latest, about eaters who are rejecting “the usual sources of authority” and tinkering with optimization through unconventional diets—upping their intake of raw buffalo brain, for instance, or swearing off vegetables. But Haigney’s not in it for the disgust or the judgment. Instead, she moves among “dark nutrition” practitioners with a deep curiosity for how they try to manage uncertainty through appetite.
It was like any other absorbing pastime: You could tunnel deep into nutrition, endlessly studying and adjusting your diet, treating your body as an ongoing experiment. When traditional researchers do experiments, they use n to represent the sample size, like the number of individuals tested. Dark-nutrition circles were constantly talking about the “n of one” — the idea that the only way to learn what is good for you is by ignoring broad samples and experimenting on your unique self.
Chow down on a few more food features
This Bottle of Dijon Mustard from Costco is Crazy Hot. A Months-Long Investigation Revealed the Surprising Reason Why.
“The search for an answer took us to a mustard dynasty in France, a Hamilton mustard mill and Palliser’s Triangle.”
Why Are Berries Everywhere, in Every Season? Driscoll’s.
“The California giant has helped turn a local, seasonal treat into a worldwide refrigerator staple and marketing juggernaut.”
Inside the Food Truck Mafia Wreaking Havoc Around the National Mall
“Turf wars. Food and fire hazards. $15 ice-cream cones. How an organized network of unlicensed food trucks took over America’s Front Lawn.”
