Tom Colicchio’s Final Service

Most people’s exposure to Tom Colicchio is through his long-running gig as head judge on Top Chef. Fewer have probably walked through the doors of his New York City restaurant Craft, which after 25 years closed its doors in late June. Through Craft, Colicchio helped spark a resurgence of family-style dining; Craft’s short ribs and roast chicken (and those sauces!) became the stuff of legend. Journalist and Switchyard founder Ted Genoways spent Craft’s final two days haunting the restaurant: shadowing its chefs, eating its food, speaking to diners, and spending time with his longtime friend Colicchio. The result, co-published with Esquire, isn’t sentimental enough to be an elegy, but still might make you a little misty. And hungry.

“Okay, let’s go,” he said. “Last one.”

“Roast chicken, chef,” Thomas said.

And everyone on the line stepped back as Colicchio cut the chicken legs and breasts himself, checking their temperature and adding the the spring onions and morels to the plate. One final gesture to Craft’s origins: the family meal, the most important tradition of nourishing the ones we love.

Colicchio had insisted that there would be no ceremony at the end. And yet, here it was. He brought the plate to the pass. He took a napkin and wiped the lip of the plate. He sprinkled on a pinch of chives. Gave the peppermill five firm twists. He took the micro greens from their bath and tossed them hard on a towel to dry them and release their flavor. He positioned them carefully on the chicken breasts.