“What learning to flip shrimp tails and build onion volcanoes taught me about the gift of performance, and its emotional toll.”
restaurants
The Top 5 Longreads of the Week
This week’s edition highlights stories by Elissa Nadworny and Claire Harbage, Thomas Lake, Jeff Sharlet, Jasmine Attia, and Brett Martin.
Inside Superiority Burger
“How did chef and former punk drummer Brooks Headley turn his all-vegetarian vision for a rock and roll diner into the season’s hottest new restaurant?”
Getting Lost in the World’s Largest Stack of Menus
“Menus provide a window into history, a vital connection to our foodways.”
Taro and Mishi Take Manhattan
“The charming tale of how two humble rats made it from Bed-Stuy to become New York magazine cover stars”
Less Family, More Meal
“It’s a meal that is meant to be enjoyed by everyone, regardless of job title; when coworkers can break the proverbial (or sometimes actual) bread; when cooks can break free from the constraints of making menu dishes and throw together something of their choosing. A cook at a high-end Italian restaurant might be moved to […]
Is the ‘Future of Food’ the Future We Want?
“The draw of a virtual restaurant is that of online shopping: The same products no matter where you are, or sometimes products exclusive to the virtual world. It’s fast food on an even grander scale.”
Caught Between New Tech Money and a Growing Homelessness Crisis, Restaurants on One Street in Venice, California, Are Trying to Keep Its Identity Alive
“There were an estimated 1,900 unhoused people living in Venice, and Rose Avenue was the nexus of that community.”
The Vegan Food Wars of DC
“A crew of innovator chefs and entrepreneurs have turned Washington into a hub of plant-forward dining. But they have all kinds of competing ideas about what meat-free fare should be.”
‘We’re at the Crossroads’
“Chefs Russell Jackson and Ian Boden struggled to reconcile their visions of fine dining with their communities’ desires. Now, as they forge a sustainable path beyond the pandemic, one of them is ready to double down, and the other is ready to walk away.”