In this edition: the jaws of history; war and piece(s); the last day of camp; stay a while; picture me rollin’.
restaurants
I Found It: The Best Free Restaurant Bread in America
“Thirteen thousand miles. Infinite contenders. One beautiful loaf.”
Finding the Cattle Queen
“Steakhouse royalty, feminist icon, fungible tourism graphic—she deserves a proper title.”
Can Jollibee Beat American Fast Food at Its Own Game?
“The U.S. introduced fast food to the Philippines. Now Jollibee is serving it back to America.”
The Life and Death of the American Foodie
”When food culture became pop culture, a new national persona was born. We regret to inform you, it’s probably you.”
Thomas Keller Asked Me to Leave The French Laundry. It Turned Into My Most Extraordinary Night as a Critic.
“There’s a slight quaver in the chef’s voice, and he tells me he is nervous. This is not something he is accustomed to doing, he says — asking a critic to leave.”
The Tale of the Early-Round KO of Muhammad Ali’s Champburger
“Ali may have continued to get his free burgers, but he never did get those hundreds of locations.”
Can Your Stomach Handle a Meal at Alchemist?
“At the Copenhagen restaurant, diners are served raw jellyfish—and freeze-dried lamb brain served in a fake cranium—while videos about climate change swirl on the ceiling. Is it ‘gastronomic opera,’ or sensory overload?”
Everybody Gets a Star
“Twenty years after its debut, Yelp has changed how we think about reviewing everything and anything.”
Why You Can’t Get a Restaurant Reservation
“How bots, mercenaries, and table scalpers have turned the restaurant reservation system inside out.”
