There’s “The $725.32 Free Bread” at Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas, where, Caity Weaver observes, “my black napkin is of a material lovelier than my dress.” The “big and bulbous” dinner rolls at Lambert’s, in Foley, Alabama, which have the “tranquil hue of hot-dog buns” and are thrown at patrons by a staffer. The Red Lobster Cheddar Bay Biscuits. Weaver’s latest food odyssey reads like a maximalist version of her legendary TGI Fridays “Endless Appetizers” feast. May she live to eat for a thousand years.
Here is where the notion for the undertaking came from: Tucked within the viscera of the continental United States is a restaurant that gives away superb free bread. Every time I have eaten it (before this past year, three times total), I have said aloud (to my husband, who did not care), “This is the best free restaurant bread in America.” The thought made me feel the way you do when you realize you were just a half a moment away from being plowed by a car, and were spared only by a chance nanosecond of dawdling before stepping into the street: giddy and flabbergasted and grateful to be alive. It seemed incredible, but also possible, that this really could be the best free restaurant bread in America. What if it was? Even more dizzyingly, what if it wasn’t? What if—unfathomable—someone else was giving away an even better bread for free? The thought drove me crazy. I begged for the opportunity to investigate.
More adventures in eating
The Practicalities and Pleasures of Homemade Train Food
“Long-haul Amtrak rides are full of people who value a slower pace to life. Of course they eat the same way.”
From the Gut
“A literary history of indigestion.”
Totally Cooked
“We picked the 25 most important recipes of the past century. Then I spent one month cooking every single one. I was not prepared.”
