“There’s a slight quaver in the chef’s voice, and he tells me he is nervous. This is not something he is accustomed to doing, he says — asking a critic to leave.”
Food
Posted inCuration
The Top 5 Longreads of the Week
Recommending stories from Mariana Serapicos, Camille Bromley, Devon Fredericksen, Georgia Brown, and Sarah Golibart Gorman.
Posted inEditor's Pick
Fried Fish & Family Affairs
“When the way ahead isn’t clear, the solution, sometimes, is to eat.”
Posted inEditor's Pick
The Practicalities and Pleasures of Homemade Train Food
“Long-haul Amtrak rides are full of people who value a slower pace to life. Of course they eat the same way.”
Posted inEditor's Pick
The Tale of the Early-Round KO of Muhammad Ali’s Champburger
“Ali may have continued to get his free burgers, but he never did get those hundreds of locations.”
Posted inEditor's Pick
Smells Like Protein Spirit
“The chase for the golden 200 grams of protein per day, and the pop-up notification confirming such maxxing, has many of us thinking differently about what, and how, we eat. But is this actually healthy?”
Posted inEditor's Pick
On Slowing Down to Cook
“Life is hectic. But to eat meals quickly and not cook is to miss out on an enjoyable sensory experience that connects us to the natural world, different cultures, and to each other.”
Posted inEditor's Pick
Eating the Earth
“The burgeoning global food trade is a lifeline for billions, but it is fragile and hard on the planet.”
Posted inEditor's Pick
Can Your Stomach Handle a Meal at Alchemist?
“At the Copenhagen restaurant, diners are served raw jellyfish—and freeze-dried lamb brain served in a fake cranium—while videos about climate change swirl on the ceiling. Is it ‘gastronomic opera,’ or sensory overload?”