Two Nights Playing With Fire At Patrick Mahomes And Travis Kelce’s Steakhouse

For Defector, Liz Cook, a former restaurant critic, reviews 1587 Prime in Kansas City, MO, a restaurant co-owned by Kansas City Chiefs teammates Patrick Mahomes and Travis Kelce. In this wry piece, she goes beyond the flash and flame of a restaurant that’s more about the scene and being seen than it is about the food. And, according to Cook, when it comes to the steaks at 1587 Prime (a menu item they should be “nailing”), she discovered more fizzle, less sizzle, you might say.

Much of the menu at 1587 Prime reads like magnetic poetry for people with expense accounts. If you’d like, you can order a black truffle grilled cheese ($27), truffle fettuccine ($39), tuna tartare with a truffle ponzu ($29), fried chicken with truffle honey ($25). You could not bring a truffle pig within a mile of this place; it would die instantly from a seizure.

The ketchups are not, in fact, made in-house. Two of the three—a truffle ketchup and a spicy ketchup—are augmented in-house, but my server confirmed with the kitchen that the base for all three was Heinz. (Heinz! This compounded the betrayal. Hunt’s would have at least made spiritual sense, given Mahomes’s old brand deal.) In one light, this is good news: house-made ketchup is almost universally terrible. In another light, I felt a bit suckered paying $15 for three small ramekins of ketchup, one of which was pure uncut Heinz. A representative for the restaurant tells me the price has since come down to $10.

This is the way of things at 1587, which is ostensibly a mashup of jersey numbers but also a credible restaurant tab. Complaining about the prices at 1587 Prime is like complaining about the wind on Mount Everest: predictable, but hardly the worst part of the experience. All the same, there is no need for anything this mediocre to cost this much.