I love bagels. A fresh everything bagel with scallion cream cheese is one of the world’s most perfect foods when done well. But I don’t know if I love bagels as much as Lloyd Squires, owner of Myer’s Bagels in Burlington, Vermont, loves bagels. His day starts at 1:15 AM (!!), ends at 7:15 PM, involves 3,600 hand-rolled bagels, and has been lovingly chronicled by Evan Weiss in the Burlington Free Press.

3:32 a.m.

The rolling begins.

The room already smells of honey and toasted sesame seeds.

3:40 a.m.

The boiling begins.

As Lloyd drops the first gluten-full bagels, he says he sees money differently. “When I bought a car, I went, ‘That’s 15,000 bagels. I have to make those!’”

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