“The U.S. introduced fast food to the Philippines. Now Jollibee is serving it back to America.”
restaurants
The Life and Death of the American Foodie
”When food culture became pop culture, a new national persona was born. We regret to inform you, it’s probably you.”
Thomas Keller Asked Me to Leave The French Laundry. It Turned Into My Most Extraordinary Night as a Critic.
“There’s a slight quaver in the chef’s voice, and he tells me he is nervous. This is not something he is accustomed to doing, he says — asking a critic to leave.”
The Tale of the Early-Round KO of Muhammad Ali’s Champburger
“Ali may have continued to get his free burgers, but he never did get those hundreds of locations.”
Can Your Stomach Handle a Meal at Alchemist?
“At the Copenhagen restaurant, diners are served raw jellyfish—and freeze-dried lamb brain served in a fake cranium—while videos about climate change swirl on the ceiling. Is it ‘gastronomic opera,’ or sensory overload?”
Everybody Gets a Star
“Twenty years after its debut, Yelp has changed how we think about reviewing everything and anything.”
Why You Can’t Get a Restaurant Reservation
“How bots, mercenaries, and table scalpers have turned the restaurant reservation system inside out.”
The Top 5 Longreads of the Week
Featuring standout reads from Ian Urbina, Hanif Abdurraqib, Sallie Tisdale, Brad Rassler, and Adam Reiner.
Who Deserves to Eat at Noma?
“A visit to the hus that Redzepi built presents 18 meticulous plates of food, and a few lingering questions to wash it all down with.”
My Benihana, Myself
“What learning to flip shrimp tails and build onion volcanoes taught me about the gift of performance, and its emotional toll.”
