Stephanie Krzywonos takes us on a fascinating tour of color throughout history, telling the origin stories of colored pigments such as ochre, Tyrian purple, mummy brown, Prussian blue, and more. But this Emergence Magazine piece is about much more than simply color—in each of her essay’s vignettes, Krzywonos explores stories of extraction, violence, and death.
Cochineal comes in vibrant reddish hues, like scarlet, crimson, carmine, and orange, and is known for its luster and longevity. To make cochineal pigment, brush plump, wingless females that have just made a waxy cocoon into bags and kill them by immersion in scalding water; exposure to steam, sunlight, or the heat of an oven; or rolling them on a wooden board without popping. If needed, leave their bodies to dry in the sun, then pulverize the dead bugs, and combine the powder with liquid. Seventy thousand female nocheztli make one pound of cochineal; harvesting the insects is tedious.
Marketers don’t want so much to capture the shriek of animals who give products their hue, but rather to capture the attention and appetites of consumers. Red insect pigment, also known as E-120 or Natural Red 4, is still used to color drinks, food, and makeup, especially those branded as having “natural ingredients.” In 2012, Starbucks stopped using cochineal in drinks such as its Strawberries & Crème Frappuccino after consumers protested.
More picks on color
Mama Don’t Take My Chromophobia Away
“Pantone’s 2026 Color of the Year is selling us a white fantasy.”
‘Maya Blue’: The Mystery Dye Recreated Two Centuries After It Was Lost
“A ceramicist in Mexico retraces his Maya roots to recreate a long-lost pre-Hispanic pigment for the first time in more than two centuries.”
Tyrian Purple: The Lost Ancient Pigment That Was More Valuable Than Gold
“For millennia, Tyrian purple was the most valuable colour on the planet…. By piecing together ancient clues, could one man bring it back?”
Chromophobia
Western architecture is paralyzed by a fear of color, argues David Batchelor in this extract from his classic polemic, Chromophobia. Paralyzed — and fascinated.
