Gen Cheese

The cheesemaking world in the US is one of tradition and convention, built and largely run by an older generation. But a growing wave of 20-something cheesemakers and producers is breathing life—and creativity and innovation—into the industry. For Taste, Mehr Singh introduces us to some of these cheese creators (from California and Vermont, from Cleveland to Madison) who are experimenting with new flavors, looking to implement more ethical and sustainable processes, and hoping to make cheesemaking (and cheese tasting) a more approachable and inclusive space, particularly for women and queer folks. Cheese lovers will obviously enjoy this read—it makes no difference if you prefer blue and tangy, or mild and creamy.

She believes that her generation is challenging traditional cheese pairings. Interestingly, in the wine world, too, many young people are now rejecting formulaic pairings. “Some of us in the cheese industry, particularly the older generation, often make it out to be this pretentious fancy food,” she said, “But if you were to look at the history of cheese, it was peasant food, first made by accident and then made out of necessity.” She added, “We only started putting odd rules around it once the aristocrats realized how delicious it was.”

Now Valera is on a mission to subvert the stereotype through a medium that speaks to people her age: TikTok. On her series “Unhinged Pairings,” which boasts over 7 million views, Valera explains each cheese’s profile as she swipes OG Kristal, a 22-month aged gouda, onto Samoa cookies, and La Tur, a tangy brie, onto sour gummy worms. She believes that wine and cheese shouldn’t be reserved for grown-up events and art galleries, that you can cut into a nice cheese with whatever you have at home, and that a bag of Cheetos has as much potential as a spread of charcuterie.