In southeastern Italy, almond groves hold centuries of local history. A granddaughter returns to gather the bitter and the sweet.
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The Wild Within the Walls
“From antiquity to modern times, Rome has been entangled with the wild animals who creep, slither, scurry, and nest among its pillars and palaces.”
My Grandpa, the Fascist?
“An old family album sent me on a journey through Italy’s dark past in Libya.”
Food Shopping in Rome
“Deliciousness, I discovered, was more filling than deprivation.”
Brave New World: A Reading List About the Dark Future
Five stories that make Aldous Huxley’s 1932 novel feel like nonfiction.
What a Tree—or a House—Remembers
Angelica Calabrese on family, memory, and the almond groves of Italy.
Soundscapes of the Silenced
“In late Renaissance Florence one in five women lived behind institutional walls whose rule was sensory mortification. Historians are struggling to recover their inexpressible secrets.”
It Began as a Rewilding Experiment. Now a Bear Is on Trial for Murder
“The death of a jogger in the Italian Alps has sparked a furious debate about the relationship between humans and nature.”
Flying Solo
On self-love and self-acceptance while aging in a disabled body.

