We’ve Underestimated Sprinkles

I love sprinkles. Always have. And somehow, as Cathy Erway shows in this delightful piece for Taste, the world has caught up to my juvenile palate. Thankfully, she phrases the appeal more artfully: “the nutritionless, mostly flavorless, tiny doodads that mimic absolutely nothing found in nature provide outsize comfort with egalitarian underpinnings. And they aren’t going away anytime soon.” Welcome to Peak Sprinkle.

American sprinkles make no pretense of resembling any food. The rainbow-colored ones are uniformly unmemorable in flavor, despite their many colors—and the chocolate ones, which are not regulated like the Dutch varieties, often have a weak connection to cocoa beyond their dark-brown exterior. According to the FDA, silver dragées—those shiny little balls you might see on fancy wedding cakes or Christmas cookies—are not even classified as a food but as a nonedible decoration. How can an ingredient whose sole purpose is to add joy and comfort to food be so odious to health authorities?

Source: Taste
Published: Mar 22, 2022
Length: 9 minutes (2,368 words)
Read the story