The Wave-Maker: On Big Wave Surfer Ken Bradshaw
The Wave-Maker: On Big Wave Surfer Ken Bradshaw
[Mark] Foo said, “But, no, no, this is really it, isn’t it? Just two guys in the water. Fifteen- to 18-foot swells. Perfect waves. No sections. This is as good as it gets.”
Bradshaw said, “Yes, Mark. This is what it’s about.” A light came on in his head. He thought, Wow, Mark actually does get it. He actually understands why we do this. Bradshaw said, “There’s just the two of us in the water. You’re riding some of the best waves of your life, and having a great time. How cool is that? No photographers, no cameramen, no nothing—just us.”
They paddled to shore and ended up at Foo’s house. They talked about nothing much, and for a while it was great. Then the phone rang, and suddenly Foo was saying, Oh, man, you wouldn’t believe what I just did! I did this! I did that! Oh yeah, I was out there with Bradshaw! Blah, blah, blah!
Bradshaw looked at him in disbelief. Foo hung up, called a magazine, and started in again. Bradshaw walked over and hung up the phone. He said, “You don’t get it after all, do you? Can’t you let it go once? Just once in your life? Don’t tell anybody? This was our moment. We did it. Isn’t that good enough for you?”
“Um, I don’t know, Ken. I could try, I guess.”
You must be logged in to post a comment.