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Marches and Militarism at Wagah

That we live in a world of borders at all is largely an accident of history. For the vast majority of human existence, whether in bands of hunter-gatherers, tribes of agriculturalists, or as subjects…
AUTHOR:Jon Rosen
LENGTH: 6 minutes (1531 words)

Mangoes of Wrath

Mirza Ghulam Ahmad began the Ahmadiyya faith when he declared himself a prophet in 1889, in his hometown of Qadian in India. This runs counter to Muslim belief that Mohammed was the last of the…
LENGTH: 2 minutes (654 words)

The Biggest Week in Bourbontown

It was the mighty Ohio that gave Louisville its first purpose and which still lends it a beauty that landlocked cities must envy. The Iroquois called it Oyo, which means the great river, and the…
LENGTH: 14 minutes (3530 words)
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What's Eating Albert Adrià?

I remember the first time I experienced the genius of Albert. I was in Arlington, Virginia, staying with a close friend who had spent years in the kitchen working beside him at elBulli. Before he…
LENGTH: 13 minutes (3257 words)

Flourish

Jon Armstrong, at work aboard the Crystal Symphony “What’s the plan, exactly?” It’s 5:30 in the afternoon and I’m sitting on the curb outside the Saigon port with a…
LENGTH: 11 minutes (2942 words)

White Moon Rising

First, a few basics about the Mongolian holiday Tsagaan Sar. Tsagaan means “white” and Sar can be translated as “month” or “moon”. The…
LENGTH: 6 minutes (1593 words)

Wheels of Fortune

My grandfather, an Armenian shoemaker from Tabriz, Iran, lived the last leg of his life in Southern California, a haven for Iranian and Armenian diasporas who had traded war and revolution for a bit…
LENGTH: 10 minutes (2501 words)

Pilgrims in Provence

I’m only slightly embarrassed to admit that the idea for a journey through Provence on foot came not from a deep investigative dive into the terrain of southern France or a moment of wild,…
LENGTH: 20 minutes (5226 words)

The Long Harvest

Workers in the vineyards. Photo by Wayne Conradie for Roads & Kingdoms WHEN Mark Solms decided to turn his family’s land in Franschoek into a serious wine estate, he took an unusual…
LENGTH: 12 minutes (3014 words)
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